I was on my own this morning and saw the Erawan Temple and Jim Thompson House museum. Thompson was an American businessman who brought Thai silk to the world market. He amassed a collection of Thai art and Asian ceramics.
In the afternoon, Michael and I visited the Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace.
Michael and I visited Wat Pho, home of the Reclining Buddha, stupas, and some temples. Covered in gold leaf, this Buddha is 15 meters (49 ft) high and 46 meters (150 ft) long. 108 bowls line the wall behind the Buddha. You buy a bucket of coins for 20 baht and drop them in the bowls for good luck. It sounds like a rain chime.
Then we went to the National Museum and saw the Funeral Chariots, the Red House (old residence), and the Viceroy Residential complex.
It takes 216 people to pull the chariotBuilt in 1795The body is placed in the “urn” in the fetal positionThe urn is lifted onto the chariot
No dogs at the airport, and, so far, no cows, bicycles or pedestrians on the freeway.
Things I learned in India:
1 Our guide said you need three things to drive in India: good brakes; good horn; and good luck.
2 There is always room for one more: including passengers (2 adults and 3 children on a motorcycle; kids cramming into,or on top of, a bus to school; 2 cars and an assorted collection of bicycles, tuk tuks, bicycles, and pedestrians – not necessarily headed in the same direction- in a traffic lane).
3 Don’t make eye contact,
4 “No” means “yes” to a vendor or beggar.
5 Watch your step.
6 Mutton means lamb. And goat.
It was an amazing trip. Kathmandu, Bhutan and India were breathtakingly beautiful at times (Mt Everest, Tiger’s Nest, Taj Mahal, and Varanasi) and sobering (crematoriums, walks down the side streets, rituals on the Ganges) at other times.
Today we headed out early to observe sunrise rituals on the Ganges. The sunset rituals we saw last night were more organized and group-oriented. The morning rituals are more individual.
Again, we took the bus as far as we could and then walked to the river.
After a short walk by the river, we got on the boat again.
Monkeys
Then walked back through the chaos to get to the bus.
Our guide called it “the city of learning and burning. It’s the home of Lord Shiva and where you come to learn about Hinduism or Buddhism, and it’s were the devout come to be cremated. The ghats (steps to the river) always busy: dawn and sunset are busiest. We were here on the full moon after Diwali which made it more crowded than normal.
On the drive to the hotel and on a walk around the neighborhood:
After lunch we rode and walked to the Ganges.
We walked along the river and then boarded a boat, to observe the sunset ceremonies.
We started the day with a sunrise tour of the Taj Mahal.
After breakfast we toured a factory that produces inlaid marble items by hand. They are supposedly descendants of the original builders of the Taj Mahal. Two craftsmen work on each piece: one man makes the inlay pieces, and the other carves the design into the marble.
Hand powered grinding wheel Flower petalMalachite, lapis lazuli, turquoise flowersAdhesive (secret recipe) -it only melts one timeThe surface is coated with henna to make the design visible.The carving is done with two chisels
Today is the beginning of wedding season. Weddings are typically large, and outside of the major cities, there are wedding venues that you can rent for your wedding. Smaller wedding are held at a local temple. There are several weddings at our hotel this evening.
A groomThe more lights, the better.Carts with speakers and horns – you need lots of noise
After lunch we toured Agra, stopping first at red sandstone Agra Fort.
Then at Mehtab Bagh (Moonlight Garden).
After dinner I walked around the hotel and strolled up and down the street in Agra.
Weddings at hotelWedding procession at hotelGroom on white horse brings up the rear
Snake charmers on the way to Amber Palace. Elephant ride up to the palace.
Photo op at Lake Palace during the bus ride back to Jaipur.
Toured City Palace and Observatory in old Jaipur, the “pink” city.
Sun dial measures time to 20 second intervals.It was right on when we were there.Half of a sun dial (Sun hits it 6 months of the year)Astrological sundial (half)Sign-specific astrological sun dials.
After lunch at a local hotel we visited a fabric and rug co-op.
I found some 1930s cars at the; hotel: Plymouth, Ford, Pontiac and a newer (1960s ?) Mercedes Benz. The old cars might belong the current Maharaja, while the Mercedes might be a guest’s.
After dinner I ventured up to the roof. The door said “Watch your head” so I assumed I was allowed to go out. (But I suspect that is not the case.)
We disembarked this morning, shortly after breakfast. Goodbye Kolkata.
He pries up the little “mud” altars where people had prayedAnd throws them in the river Chickens going to marketBig Ben of Kolkata Lotus blossoms – National flower
My checked bag didn’t make it through security. They took me from the gate, to the basement to “clear my bag.” For some reason, mosquito repellent was not allowed in the checked bag. They made me go through security again and didn’t allow me to carry it on, either.
Our hotel (Rambagh Palace).
After dinner – an assortment of regional specialties – at the hotel
After lunch we visited Chandernagore, established as a French colony in 1673. The French obtained permission from Ibrahim Khan, the then Nawab of Bengal to establish a trading post on the riverbank. It became a permanent French settlement in 1688.